Data sources: EPA, AWWA Last updated: March 2026

Before Moving Day

2–4 Weeks Before

1. Research your new ZIP code — check the ZipCheckup report for water quality violations, lead levels, radon risk, and flood claims. This tells you what to prioritize testing for

2. Identify your water source:

   • Public water: Find your water utility. The utility may be different from who bills for sewer. Check the previous owner's utility bill or contact the city
   • Private well: Confirm the well status, location, and any existing treatment systems with the seller

3. Schedule utility transfers:

   • Water: Contact the utility to transfer or start service. Many require 3–5 business days
   • Electric: Contact the provider (or choose one in deregulated markets)
   • Gas: If applicable. Schedule start date for your move-in day
   • Internet: Often the longest lead time — schedule 2+ weeks ahead

4. Order water test kits — if you plan to test on your own, order kits from a state-certified lab in advance so they arrive before or shortly after move-in. Labs typically mail you collection bottles with prepaid return shipping

5. Download your new utility's CCR — your water utility's annual Consumer Confidence Report tells you what's been detected in the water system

1 Week Before

6. Confirm utility start dates — verify water, electric, gas, and internet will be active on move-in day

7. Gather the previous owner's water info:

   • Last water test results (especially for wells)
   • Filter or treatment system documentation (model, last service date, filter replacement schedule)
   • Well report (if applicable) — depth, yield, construction date
   • Radon test results

8. Buy a basic water filter — even a simple NSF 53 pitcher filter provides immediate protection from lead while you wait for test results. $25–$40 at any hardware store

Setting Up Water Service

Public Water

Transferring service:

1. Contact the utility (phone or online portal) — you'll need the property address, your ID, and the move-in date
2. Most utilities transfer within 1–3 business days
3. There may be a connection fee ($25–$75) or deposit (sometimes waived with a credit check)
4. Billing typically begins on your move-in date

First steps after the water is on:

1. Flush all cold water taps for 5 minutes — clear stagnant water from pipes
2. Flush the hot water heater — drain 2–3 gallons from the drain valve at the bottom. This clears sediment and stagnant water
3. Check all fixtures — look for leaks under sinks, around toilets, and at water heater connections
4. Note the water meter reading — photograph it on day one to verify your first bill
5. Check water pressure — should be 40–80 psi. Below 40 may indicate a pressure regulator issue or a partially closed valve

Well Water

Well water doesn't require a utility setup, but has more startup steps:

1. Verify the pump works — turn on a faucet and confirm water flows. Check the pressure gauge on the tank (typically 40–60 psi)
2. Check the well cap — should be securely in place with no openings
3. Flush the system — run all taps for 10+ minutes if the home has been vacant
4. Test before drinking — collect samples for bacteria and nitrates. Do not drink unfiltered well water until test results confirm safety
5. Inspect any existing treatment equipment — check filter cartridge dates, UV lamp hours, water softener salt level

See the well water safety guide for detailed well startup and testing procedures.

First-Week Water Testing

Priority 1: Immediate (Before Drinking)

For well water — test these before using the water for drinking or cooking:

Test	Why	Cost
Total coliform / E. coli	Bacterial contamination — health emergency if present	$20–$40
Nitrates	Dangerous for infants; indicates contamination pathway	$15–$30

For public water — acceptable to drink (after flushing) while awaiting test results, but test within the first week.

Priority 2: First Week

Test	Why	Cost
Lead (first-draw)	No safe level; determines if plumbing leaches lead	$25–$50
pH	Low pH = corrosive water = higher lead risk	$10–$20
Hardness	Affects appliances, soap efficiency, plumbing lifespan	$15–$20

How to collect a first-draw lead sample:

1. Let water sit in pipes overnight (do not use water after 10 PM)
2. In the morning, collect the FIRST liter from the cold water kitchen tap
3. Do not run any water before collecting
4. Send to a state-certified lab

Priority 3: First Month

Based on your ZIP code report and local conditions:

Test	When Needed	Cost
PFAS	Near military bases, airports, industrial areas	$200–$350
Arsenic	Well water, western U.S., New England	$25–$50
Radon in water	Well water in EPA Zone 1 or 2	$40–$80
Radon in air	All homes, especially Zone 1 or 2	$15–$30 (DIY)
VOCs	Near gas stations, dry cleaners, industrial sites	$100–$200

Where to Get Kits

• State drinking water lab (some offer free kits for new homeowners)
• EPA certified lab locator
• County health department
• Hardware stores (for radon air test kits)

Other Utilities Checklist

Electric

• Transfer or start service (1–3 days)
• Locate the circuit breaker panel
• Test all outlets and switches
• Note the meter reading on day one
• Consider an energy audit (many utilities offer free audits for new customers)

Natural Gas

• Transfer or start service (may require an in-person inspection/lighting of pilot lights)
• Locate the gas shut-off valve
• Test all gas appliances (stove, furnace, water heater, dryer)
• Install carbon monoxide detectors on each level (if not already present)

Sewer/Septic

• Public sewer: Usually included with water billing. No separate setup needed
• Septic system: Ask the seller when it was last pumped (recommended every 3–5 years). Locate the tank and access ports. Get a copy of the septic design if available

Internet/Cable

• Schedule installation 2+ weeks before move-in
• Check which providers serve your address (availability varies by neighborhood)
• Consider fiber if available — best long-term investment

Trash and Recycling

• Contact the local waste management company or check with the municipality
• Some areas have mandatory hauler; others allow you to choose

Mail

• File an address change with USPS (online at usps.com, $1.10 fee)
• Update your address with banks, insurance, subscriptions, voter registration, DMV

Well Water Startup

If your new home has a private well, follow this dedicated startup sequence:

Day 1: Inspection and Flush

1. Inspect the wellhead — cap intact, no standing water nearby, no visible damage
2. Check the pressure tank gauge (normal: 40–60 psi)
3. Run all faucets for 10 minutes to flush
4. Note any discoloration, sediment, or unusual taste/smell

Day 1–2: Sample Collection

5. Collect bacteria sample (total coliform + E. coli)
6. Collect nitrate sample
7. If home was vacant >30 days, consider shock chlorination before testing

Day 3–7: Awaiting Results

8. Use bottled or filtered water for drinking and cooking until bacteria results return
9. Inspect any existing treatment equipment:
   • Water softener: check salt level, regeneration cycle
   • Iron filter: check backwash schedule
   • UV system: check lamp hours (replace at 9,000 hours or annually)
   • RO system: check filter dates

After Results

10. If bacteria-free and nitrates <10 mg/L → safe to drink
11. If bacteria detected → shock chlorinate, re-test in 1–2 weeks
12. Schedule comprehensive testing (lead, arsenic, radon, hardness, iron, pH) within first month
13. Install treatment as needed based on results

Filters and Treatment

Immediate Protection (Day One)

Even before test results arrive, a basic filter provides a safety margin:

• NSF 53 pitcher filter ($25–$40) — removes lead, chlorine, cysts. Use for all drinking and cooking water
• Faucet-mount filter ($25–$50) — same protection, more convenient for daily use

After Test Results

Match your filter to your contaminants. Use the Filter Matcher tool or the filter guide by contaminant:

Contaminant Found	Recommended Filter	Budget
Lead	NSF 53 carbon block or RO	$25–$500
PFAS	RO (NSF 58) or NSF P473 GAC	$150–$500
Bacteria (well)	UV disinfection	$300–$800
Nitrates	RO or anion exchange	$150–$500
Arsenic	RO or specialized media	$150–$500
Hardness	Water softener	$800–$2,500
Iron/manganese	Iron/oxidizing filter	$800–$2,000

To test your new ZIP before buying filters, see Best Water Testing Kits. For full RO comparison, see Best Under-Sink Reverse Osmosis Systems. For whole-house setups, see Best Whole-House Water Filters.

If You Inherited a Filter System

The previous owner may have installed filters or treatment equipment. Before relying on it:

1. Identify the system — make, model, and what it's certified to remove
2. Check filter dates — if you can't determine when filters were last changed, replace them. An exhausted filter provides zero protection
3. Verify it's appropriate — a water softener doesn't remove lead. A carbon filter doesn't remove nitrates. Make sure the system addresses the actual contaminants in your water
4. Set up a maintenance schedule — calendar reminders for filter replacement

Ongoing Maintenance Calendar

Monthly

• Check water softener salt level (if applicable)
• Inspect under sinks for leaks
• Check water heater for signs of corrosion or leaking

Every 2–3 Months

• Replace pitcher filter cartridge (per manufacturer schedule)
• Replace faucet-mount filter cartridge

Every 6 Months

• Replace under-sink carbon filter cartridge
• Clean UV quartz sleeve (well water systems)
• Flush hot water heater (drain 2–3 gallons from the drain valve)
• Check outdoor hose bibs and irrigation for leaks

Annually

• Test well water — bacteria and nitrates at minimum
• Replace UV lamp
• Replace RO pre-filters and post-filters
• Inspect well cap and visible wellhead condition
• Review your water utility's CCR (published by July 1 each year)
• Test radon in air (first year; then every 2 years if initial test was low)

Every 2–3 Years

• Replace RO membrane
• Comprehensive well water panel (add lead, arsenic, hardness, iron, pH to annual bacteria/nitrate test)
• Re-test radon in water (well water in Zone 1/2 areas)
• Professional plumbing inspection (especially in homes built before 1986)

Every 3–5 Years

• Pump septic tank (if applicable)
• Replace water softener resin bed (if performance declines)
• Backwash media replacement for iron/manganese filters

FAQ